The Dirty Dozen: 12 Cosmetic Ingredients to Avoid

At Green Beaver, our philosophy is that everything we need for personal care can be found in nature. But beyond having a lighter ecological footprint and more nourishing ingredients,  the benefits of natural products extend to what they don’t expose you to.

Over a decade ago, the David Suzuki Foundation outlined a list of twelve toxic chemicals in personal care products that had potential effects on human health or the environment. They called them the Dirty Dozen, a name you may have encountered in a few places, including the Canadian government’s website. While regulations have evolved since then, many of these ingredients remain the subject of ongoing research and regulatory review.

Let’s break them down, one by one. 

1.     Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT)

BHA and BHT are petroleum-based antioxidants, which help slow bacterial growth and preserve products. They are commonly added to cosmetics to help extend their shelf life. BHA is considered to be possibly carcinogenic for humans, as research shows that animals exposed to these ingredients developed tumors. Being non-biodegradable toxins, BHA and BHT accumulate in aquatic ecosystems and can pose a risk to aquatic organisms.

2.     Coal tar-derived dyes.

Coal tar is a thick black liquid and a manufacturing by-product of coal products. It’s a non-renewable material that’s used in roofing, but also medically in shampoos to help with dandruff and hair strengthening.

From this substance, you get cheap dyes that give stable and bright colours in cosmetics like lipstick and eye makeup. Coal tar contains substances known to cause cancer, and some coal tar-derived dyes may contain carcinogenic impurities if they are not properly refined. Canada restricts their use in cosmetics and requires certain products containing coal tar to carry warning labels.

3.     Diethanolamine (DEA), cocamide DEA, and lauramide DEA

DEA is an organic compound. Cocamide DEA is coconut oil-based, and lauramide DEA is a chemical-based surfactant. Because they act as emulsifiers and foaming agents, they’re common in hair care, lotions, shower and bath products, and detergents. 

These ingredients can react with certain nitrosating agents during manufacturing or storage to form nitrosamines, a class of compounds found in processed meats and tobacco, that includes known carcinogens and that can be toxic for aquatic life. Because of this, DEA and related ingredients are restricted under Health Canada's Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist.

4.     Dibutyl phthalate (DBP)

Phthalates form a family of synthetic chemicals that wear multiple hats. You can find them in toys, food packaging, and even vinyl flooring. They are also used as plasticizers, solvents, fixatives or antifoam ingredients, so you find them in nail polish, perfume, body lotions, deodorants, soaps, and very commonly in fragrances.

DBP, historically used in nail polish and other personal care products to improve flexibility and durability, has been linked to reproductive and developmental effects, notably the ability to disrupt the endocrine (hormonal) system, particularly in men.

Like many toxins on the list, it’s non-biodegradable, so it stays in the water for long periods of time. When it accumulates in the water, it too is toxic to aquatic life. 

5.     Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives

Used in many household cleaners and cosmetic products as a preservative and to prevent bacteria and mould growth, formaldehyde is an organic compound that evaporates at room temperature. It occurs naturally—even in people, during metabolism—but high concentrations of formaldehyde have been linked to health concerns. Formaldehyde is classified as a known human carcinogen, and some formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are restricted in cosmetics. Formaldehyde is a volatile organic compound (VOC). In high concentrations, it contributes to indoor and outdoor air pollution and is toxic to marine life

6.     Parabens

Parabens are tricky. They are organic compounds found in preservatives, antimicrobial soaps, flavour enhancers, fragrances, and pesticides, because they prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi.

Some parabens are also known to mimic hormones like estrogen and have been studied for their potential to disrupt the endocrine system. Some have even been found to have negative effects on the thyroid and stomach lining. Studies have also shown they have a disruptive effect on aquatic life and emerging research is investigating whether they may play a role in coral bleaching. While many regulatory agencies continue to allow parabens at permitted concentrations, research into their long-term effects continues.

7.     Parfum

“Parfums” or “fragrances” are artificial aromas you’ll find in most scented personal care products. They are umbrella terms for over 3,000 synthetic ingredients that companies don’t have to mention, including phthalates and parabens.

In Canada, manufacturers are generally allowed to list these mixtures simply as "fragrance" without disclosing every individual component. While some fragrance ingredients are considered safe, some have been associated with allergic reactions, hormone disruption or are even considered carcinogenic. Some fragrances can also contribute to environmental biodegradation.

If you have sensitive skin, consider choosing products that are fragrance-free or scented with essential oils (like ours!).

8.     Polyethylene glycol (PEG)

PEG is an ingredient derived from petroleum refining used in lotions, shampoos and antiperspirants as a thickener, solvent and humectant. The primary concern with PEG ingredients is not the compound itself, but the possibility of contamination with related less safe compounds such as ethylene oxide or 1,4-dioxane if they are not properly purified during manufacturing. Being non-biodegradable, they can accumulate in waterways and pollute the environment. 

9.     Petrolatum

Petrolatum, commonly known as petroleum jelly, is a humectant often used in moisturizers and lip balms to keep in water and hydrate skin. Like PEG, it’s also a by-product of petroleum refining, a non-renewable source. Health concerns relate primarily to poorly refined petrolatum, which may contain impurities such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons.

10.  Siloxanes

Siloxane is a family of synthetic compounds made from silicone and oxygen. They’re used in shampoos and moisturizers to soften, moisturize and help formulas spread more easily. Certain cyclic siloxanes can accumulate in aquatic organisms and may pose risks to wildlife. Canada has introduced restrictions on some siloxanes to help reduce environmental impacts.

11.  Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)

SLES can be made from palm kernel or coconut oil but is most often derived from petrochemicals. It’s used as a cleansing and foaming agent, so it’s common in shampoos, bath products, soaps, and shaving cream. While safe in small doses, if manufacturing is not carefully controlled, it may contain trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane, an unwanted contaminant. High concentrations released into waterways may also affect aquatic organisms.

12.  Triclosan

Triclosan is an antimicrobial agent used to kill bacteria and prevent bad odours and is often used as a preservative. It’s common in soap, toothpaste, deodorants, and mouthwash. While safe for us, Health Canada recently restricted the use of anything more than 0.3% triclosan in personal care products due to its impact on the ability of aquatic animals and plants to reproduce. It can persist in the environment and has also raised concerns about contributing to antimicrobial resistance when overused.

Choosing personal care products is about making informed decisions. Though several of the ingredients on the Dirty Dozen list are still permitted in certain applications in Canada, they have raised enough concerns to warrant careful consideration. Reading ingredient labels and choosing products made with natural ingredients can prevent unnecessary exposure and support healthier ecosystems.

At Green Beaver, we believe transparency matters. That's why we formulate our products without the ingredients on the Dirty Dozen list, using effective, natural alternatives that are safe for both people and the environment. Discover our full array of natural personal care products here.